The movie Downton Abbey, which opened in September, was the perfect excuse for our costume group to have a 1920s outing.
I decided to make Robe de Style, a fashion of the mid 1920s that varies a little from the typical androgynous straight lines of many 1920s styles. A Robe de Style has the long-waisted look of the decade, but a much fuller skirt – some were even worn over very full and/or stiffened petticoats.
My inspiration image came from a pattern illustration and layout diagram from the wonderful Commercial Pattern Archive of a robe de style from 1925. I didn’t draw up the pattern exactly; I based the simple bodice on my measurements and used a rectangle for the skirt, but this pattern reassured me I was being (mostly) historically accurate.
1920s formal wear often used highly decorated or heavily beaded fabrics, but these are harder to get now and well beyond my budget. I did, however, have a ‘vintage’ silk sari in the stash, with a decorative border. Not necessarily historically accurate, but in keeping with the times.
As always with making something from a sari, there’s a certain amount of planning the layout before cutting to make sure that there’ll be enough of the right parts of the fabric for the dress.
Because of the way the border is dyed, I cut the bodice side pieces a bit off the grain. Which meant that the edge of the armholes didn’t sit quite right. I may end up putting a small armhole dart in for next time I wear it, or a narrow facing to stabilise the edge.
For the back of the bodice, I put a centre-back seam in and made a feature of the borders.
If I was making something like this again for me, I’d make it with sleeves – sleeveless isn’t a wonderful look for middle-aged arms. But for a hurried make I am happy with the final outcome, and it felt appropriate for the freedom and decadence of the 1920s. It was a fun evening out!