1920s Robe de Style

The movie Downton Abbey, which opened in September, was the perfect excuse for our costume group to have a 1920s outing.

I decided to make Robe de Style, a fashion of the mid 1920s that varies a little from the typical androgynous straight lines of many 1920s styles. A Robe de Style has the long-waisted look of the decade, but a much fuller skirt – some were even worn over very full and/or stiffened petticoats.

My inspiration image came from a pattern illustration and layout diagram from the wonderful Commercial Pattern Archive of a robe de style from 1925. I didn’t draw up the pattern exactly; I based the simple bodice on my measurements and used a rectangle for the skirt, but this pattern reassured me I was being (mostly) historically accurate.

Black and white drawing of two dresses with deep v-neck over a centre bodice piece, low waist, and full skirts. Image also has  small drawings of the sewing pattern pieces.
Pictorial Review, pattern 3207

1920s formal wear often used highly decorated or heavily beaded fabrics, but these are harder to get now and well beyond my budget. I did, however, have a ‘vintage’ silk sari in the stash, with a decorative border. Not necessarily historically accurate, but in keeping with the times.

As always with making something from a sari, there’s a certain amount of planning the layout before cutting to make sure that there’ll be enough of the right parts of the fabric for the dress.

The photo shows the sari fabric, which is medium pink in colour with a border that is deeper pink with gold and white embroidery.
Sari dress fabric

Because of the way the border is dyed, I cut the bodice side pieces a bit off the grain. Which meant that the edge of the armholes didn’t sit quite right. I may end up putting a small armhole dart in for next time I wear it, or a narrow facing to stabilise the edge.

A blue dress-makers model wearing a pink dress with gold and white embroidery.
The almost-completed dress

For the back of the bodice, I put a centre-back seam in and made a feature of the borders.

Image shows the back of the dress on the dressmakers model. The back of the bodice features a wide decorated strip with two rows of the gold and white embroidered fabric of the border joined together at centre back.
Back of the dress
An informal selfie of me in the dress with a long strand of pearls
Testing out the dress – with armholes still to hem.

If I was making something like this again for me, I’d make it with sleeves – sleeveless isn’t a wonderful look for middle-aged arms. But for a hurried make I am happy with the final outcome, and it felt appropriate for the freedom and decadence of the 1920s. It was a fun evening out!

Wearing the pink dress at the event, with a long strand of pearls notted, pearls in my hair, and marron 1920=s style shoes.

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