These drawers are a part of the 1880s underwear set for my historical underwear collection project. They are made from the pattern for pantalons in La Mode Illustrée 1882, number 32. I’ve made them the size of the pattern pieces (plus seam allowance), without alteration. The finished waist is about 68cm (26.5inches).

The drawers are sewn on to a yoke, to reduce bulk around the waist and for a smooth fit under the corset. The yoke closes at the back with a drawstring for fit adjustment, and buttons.

On the pattern sheet, the piece for the legs was initially hard to work out. The lines in the image above show how it was on the sheet; the bottom of the leg folded up, back and front marked on one half of the piece. Here’s the whole piece drawn up and cut out of cotton lawn:

The yoke piece was simple in comparison! (Please excuse the state of my cutting board. It’s getting close on 40 years old. I need to replace it but the two local big-box shops don’t have them.)

As usual with these antique LMI patterns, the instructions are minimal, and I used Google Translate to assist with translating the French, supplementing my minimal French (although having done a few of these now, my sewing French is getting quite good!).

Translated to: After having completed the folded side, cut into madapollam two whole pieces, each from Figure 7 which represents only half of one of these pieces, and taking into account the difference in outline for the front pants. Each half of the pants is decorated with small pleats and an embroidered band 4 cm wide. The belt is cut 2 out of double taped fabric, whole according to FIG. 8 which only represents half. On its upper edge, a slide is formed in which a cord is passed. The belt is trimmed with buttons and buttonholes.

After the yoke pieces were stitched, turned and pressed, I stitched a channel on the yoke as per the marking on the pattern piece, and threaded 1cm cotton twill tape through the channel, anchoring it at the side.

I added three flat shell buttons to the yoke, but in hindsight, I either needed to do the casing differently, or only add two buttons, as the top botton and the tie don’t sit together.

I did two 1/4″ tucks in the legs, and added some cotton broderie anglaise lace to the edges, finishing the seam by overcasting by hand.

The button holes on the back of the yoke are hand-stitched.

I’m very happy with these drawers overall, although there are a couple of things I’d do differently next time. I’m currently sizing-up the pattern to make a pair to fit me – my waist is not 27 inches anymore!!

Historical Sew Monthly Challenge 5: Basic

What the item is: 1882 Drawers
How it fits the challenge: One of the most basic pieces of clothing for women, worn under everything.
Material: Cotton lawn
Pattern: La Mode Illustrée 1882, number 32, Pantalon no. 2
Year: 1882
Notions: cotton thread, twill tape, cotton broderie anglaise lace, shell buttons
How historically accurate is it?: About 95%? Main seams machine -sewn, finished by hand, as appropriate for 1880s. Handstitched button holes. Fabric and lace as close as I could get.
Hours to complete: About 10, including tracing the pattern and hand-finishing
First worn: For a display collection
Total cost: Fabric about $10AUD. Everything else from stash.